In short
these three suit different stays. Pick The Balmoral for a large landmark hotel with a spa, an indoor pool and room for a family; Gleneagles Townhouse for 33 rooms for two, a rooftop bar and classes you can book; The Witchery for one of nine suites on Castlehill, each made for two adults and closed to children under 10. None of the three prints a nightly rate on its own site. On 11 November 2026 the MICHELIN Guide’s booking pages showed one night on Wednesday 9 December from £499 at The Balmoral, a Booking.com rate with free cancellation, and from £572 at Gleneagles Townhouse, non-refundable and room only, both with taxes and fees; The Witchery has no such listing. The offers, deposits, service charges and the city’s 5% visitor levy are set out below, with a way to check your own dates.
Three hotels in central Edinburgh, each a different way to stay, chosen for format and not ranked. The Balmoral is the large landmark, with its clock tower on Princes Street, 167 rooms and 20 suites, a spa and 500 malts. Gleneagles Townhouse is the townhouse with a members’ club: 33 guestrooms and a rooftop bar on St Andrew Square. The Witchery is suites only: nine of them above a restaurant, in buildings dating back to 1595, “at the gates of Edinburgh Castle” in the hotel’s words.
The comparison rests on what each hotel states on its own site; where we go outside it, the table says so. This is not a full list of the city’s luxury hotels: Prestonfield House, The Witchery’s sister property, and LYLA Restaurant & Rooms, new on Michelin’s 2026 Key list, are among those left out, with no judgement implied.
Side by side
| The Balmoral | Gleneagles Townhouse | The Witchery | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Address | 1 Princes Street, EH2 2EQ | No. 39 St Andrew Square, EH2 2AD | Castlehill, The Royal Mile, EH1 2NF |
| What it is | “Luxury Hotel with Spa”, “a legendary hotel and landmark clock tower” | Gleneagles’ first city outpost: “a luxury hotel, all-day restaurant, rooftop bar and members’ club” | Nine suites above the restaurant, in “historic buildings dating back to 1595” |
| Rooms | 167 rooms and 20 suites, from 19 m² (Classic Room) to 105 m² (Glamis Suite) | 33 guestrooms in four categories, 26 to 40 m², two guests at most | 9 suites, each with one king-size bed and no extra beds |
| Wellness | Irene Forte Spa: indoor lap pool, sauna and steam room, five treatment rooms, gym; open daily 7am to 10pm | The Strong Rooms: gym and studios, cryotherapy, infrared sauna, over 60 classes that hotel guests can book | None stated on the pages we read |
| Dining | Number One, Brasserie Prince, Bar Prince, SCOTCH and afternoon tea in Palm Court; “4 AA Rosette dining” | The Spence, an all-day restaurant and bar; Lamplighters, the rooftop bar, for members and hotel guests | The restaurant below the suites, for parties of up to six; breakfast for suite guests only |
| Children | All ages; cots in the room, extra beds and interconnecting rooms on request | Cots on request; no extra beds | Aged 10 and over only, sharing a suite with an adult |
| Check-in and check-out | From 3pm; out by noon (MICHELIN Guide booking page; not on the hotel pages we read) | From 3pm; out by 11am | After 2:30pm; out before 11:30am |
| Parking | Valet, £45 per night | None on site; spaces in St James Quarter, £28.20 per day | None; an NCP car park is a 5-minute walk |
| Star wording | “5-Star” in the page title | None stated on the pages we read | “Luxury 5-Star Hotel” in the page title |
| Michelin Keys 2026 | Two Keys | Two Keys (new) | Not on the list |
| Ask before you book | Whether spa and pool access comes with your room | Whether you can use the gym without a class or treatment booked | Whether your rate includes breakfast |
Source: the three hotels’ own sites, except The Balmoral’s check-in times (MICHELIN Guide booking page) and the Keys (Michelin Guide list). “None stated” means we found nothing on that point, not that the hotel offers nothing.
How much does a night cost?
None of the three hotels prints a nightly rate on its own site; a price appears only once you enter dates in the booking engine. The nearest thing to a published rate is the MICHELIN Guide’s hotel booking pages, which on 11 November 2026 opened with one adult and the night of 9 to 10 December already selected:
| Hotel | Lowest price shown, one night, 9 to 10 December 2026 | Room and conditions shown |
|---|---|---|
| The Balmoral | £499 (£498.75), total with taxes and fees | Classic Double Room, 19 m², queen bed; a Booking.com rate; free cancellation until 7 December 2026 |
| Gleneagles Townhouse | £572, total with taxes and fees | Nook Room, king bed; non-refundable, room only (£629.20 non-refundable with breakfast) |
| The Witchery | No listing | Not among the MICHELIN Guide’s bookable hotels |
The two figures are not like for like: the Balmoral rate can be cancelled free until 7 December, the Gleneagles Townhouse rate cannot be refunded, and neither is the hotel’s own rate. Treat them as an order of magnitude for a December weeknight, not a quote: one channel, one date, the cheapest room. The page does not say whether its “taxes & fees” include the visitor levy or Gleneagles Townhouse’s service charge.
What it costs: published prices and charges
All read on official pages on 11 November 2026.
| Hotel | Item | Published price or term |
|---|---|---|
| All three | Edinburgh visitor levy | 5% of the cost of paid overnight accommodation, for stays from 24 July 2026, capped at five nights in a row |
| The Balmoral | “Forte Escapes” offer | Up to 20% off, for stays from 1 December 2026 to 19 March 2027, booked by 19 March 2027 |
| The Balmoral | “Stay 4, Pay 3” offer | Fourth night free; four nights minimum |
| The Balmoral | Valet parking | £45 per night |
| The Balmoral | Dogs | £50 per stay; one dog under 20 lb per room |
| The Balmoral | Afternoon tea, Palm Court | £75 per person; £92.50 with Champagne (autumn 2026 menu) |
| Gleneagles Townhouse | Service charge | A discretionary 5% on the room rate; 12.5% on dining bills and leisure activities |
| Gleneagles Townhouse | “Twice as Nice” offer | Up to 20% off two nights or more, with breakfast in The Spence and access to The Strong Rooms and Lamplighters; new room bookings only; a non-refundable deposit of the first night for each room is charged once you book; VAT and the visitor levy are included in the rate, the service charge is not; bookable on selected dates until the end of January 2027 |
| Gleneagles Townhouse | Parking | Private spaces in St James Quarter, £28.20 per day, requested at least 48 hours ahead |
| Gleneagles Townhouse | Dogs | £100 per dog, per night; two at most |
| Gleneagles Townhouse | Sunday Feast in The Spence | £95 per person, last Sunday of the month |
| The Witchery | Deposit and cancellation | £100 per night, non-refundable (50% for four nights or more); cancellation without further penalty until noon, seven days before arrival |
| The Witchery | Booked direct | Best rate guaranteed, a bottle of Champagne on arrival and complimentary breakfast; 10% off if you pay for the whole stay in advance, a rate that is non-refundable |
| The Witchery | Set lunch | £39.50 for two courses, £49.50 for three |
| The Witchery | Afternoon tea | From £60 per person, Monday to Friday |
How to check a rate for your dates
- Enter your dates and two adults on each hotel’s own booking page, and note which room category the first price belongs to.
- Check what the total includes. The Gleneagles Townhouse offer rate includes VAT and the 5% levy; The Witchery says its rates are “subject to applicable taxes and fees”. If the levy is not shown, add 5% of the room cost for each paid night, up to five nights in a row.
- Add the discretionary charges. At Gleneagles Townhouse that is 5% on the room rate. A price from another channel, such as the MICHELIN Guide figure, already includes taxes and fees, so ask the hotel whether the charge is added to a rate booked there.
- Read the deposit before you pay: the first night under the Gleneagles Townhouse offer, £100 a night at The Witchery. The Balmoral’s pages publish none.
- Set the price against the hotel’s own offers above, and against the same night on a second channel such as the MICHELIN Guide page.
- Ask in writing what the rate includes. Outside its offer, Gleneagles Townhouse does not say whether breakfast is part of the rate, and The Witchery does not say whether rates booked elsewhere include it.
The Balmoral
At 1 Princes Street, under its clock tower, The Balmoral calls itself “a symbol of its city” and promises “4 AA Rosette dining, French-Scottish bistro fare, award-winning afternoon tea and a serene urban spa”, along with whisky ambassadors and 500 malts. It does not say which restaurant holds the Rosettes. Its dining pages are Number One, Brasserie Prince, Bar Prince, Palm Court, where afternoon tea is served from noon to 5pm, and the bar SCOTCH.
The hotel counts 167 rooms and 20 suites, which makes it by far the largest of the three. Rooms start at 19 m² for a Classic Room with a queen bed and a courtyard view; most categories have a king bed that can be twinned, and the largest suite listed, the Glamis, measures 105 m².
It is also the one of the three built for families. The hotel welcomes children of all ages, sets rooms up with cots, offers extra beds and interconnecting rooms on request and takes 50% off children’s menus. Its Family Room joins two Executive View rooms: 50 m² for four guests.
The Irene Forte Spa has an indoor lap pool, a sauna and steam room, five treatment rooms and a gym, open daily from 7am to 10pm, and a spa membership brings “full access to the facilities”. What the hotel does not say is whether that access comes with a room, so put the question when you book.
The practical terms: valet parking at £45 a night with a space guaranteed, dogs under 20 lb at £50 per stay, one per room, and airport transfers, a 25-minute drive by the hotel’s reckoning. Check-in and check-out times are not on the hotel pages we read; the MICHELIN Guide booking page gives 3pm and noon.
Gleneagles Townhouse
Gleneagles’ first city outpost sits at No. 39 St Andrew Square. It has 33 guestrooms, “shaped by the spirit of our Georgian home”, an all-day restaurant and bar called The Spence, and a members’ club. “Members and hotel guests get the keys to our rooftop bar for skyline cocktails,” the hotel says of Lamplighters; it gives no hours and does not say whether you need to book.

The rooms come in four categories. The hotel states the sizes as ranges, and they overlap:
| Category | Size | Bed | Also stated |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nook Room | 29 to 32 m² | King-size or twin | Rear-facing, without views; some without baths |
| House Bedroom | 26 to 32 m² | King-size or twin | Various views; some without baths |
| Town Bedroom | 30 to 36 m² | King-size or twin | City views; some without baths |
| Master Bedroom | 39 to 40 m² | King-size | St Andrew Square views; free-standing bath |
Every room sleeps two at most. If a bath matters, ask for it by name when you book: only the Master Bedroom is listed with one throughout.
The wellness space, The Strong Rooms, has a gym and studios, a cryotherapy chamber and infrared saunas. The hotel lists “over 60 complementary classes” (its spelling) and says they “are available for members and hotel guests to book”. The gym is less clear, because the hotel’s own pages disagree. The room page says house guests have access to the gym and wellness spaces; the FAQ says residents are welcome if they “have a treatment or class booked”; the wellness page, titled “Members’ Gym & Spa”, carries the caption “The Strong Rooms - Members Only” above its gym section; and the Twice as Nice offer lists access to The Strong Rooms among its inclusions. Ask which applies to your stay.
The practical terms are plainer. Check-in is from 3pm and check-out by 11am. Breakfast is served in The Spence from 7am to 10.30am Monday to Friday and from 8am to 10.30am at weekends, except on the last weekend of each month, when it runs from 7.30am to 10am because of the Spence Brunch Club. Cots are available on request, but there are no extra beds. The MICHELIN Guide listing says the opposite about cots, so if you need one, have it confirmed in writing. Dogs up to the size of a Labrador are accepted, two per room at most, at £100 per dog, per night. There is no on-site parking or valet; the hotel has a limited number of private spaces in St James Quarter at £28.20 a day, to be requested at least 48 hours ahead.
The Witchery
On Castlehill, on the Royal Mile, The Witchery keeps nine suites above its restaurant in buildings dating back to 1595; in the hotel’s words they “scream romance with a capital ‘R’”. Each has a name: The Vestry, The Sempill, The Old Rectory, The Library, The Inner Sanctum, The Heriot, The Guardroom, The Armoury and The Turret.

The limits that the site’s banner leaves vague are spelled out in its FAQs and terms:
- Suites: “designed for two adults sharing a UK king-sized bed”. Every suite has one king-size bed, and the hotel cannot add another. Guests aged 10 and over may stay when sharing a suite with an accompanying adult; younger children, infants included, may not.
- Dining rooms: parties of up to six, and children aged 10 and over. The hotel encourages smart dress.
- Breakfast: for suite guests only, in the Original Dining Room or as a hamper brought to the suite.
- Arrival: check-in after 2:30pm, check-out before 11:30am. The Witchery has no car park of its own (the nearest NCP is a 5-minute walk, at the corner of Johnston Terrace and Castle Terrace) and does not take dogs.
The prices it does publish are for its dining rooms, not its suites: a set lunch at £39.50 for two courses or £49.50 for three, served daily from noon until 4:30pm, and afternoon tea from £60 per person, Monday to Friday from 2:30pm to 3:30pm, except in August and from 21 to 23 December.
Its sister property, Prestonfield House, was awarded a Michelin Key for 2026 and is a Relais & Châteaux member, according to The Witchery’s site.
What do the stars and Keys mean?
The Balmoral and The Witchery both use “5-Star” in their page titles, and neither page names who awarded the stars. It cannot be a current VisitScotland grade: VisitScotland retired its Quality Assurance grading on 31 March 2025. The AA still awards professionally inspected star ratings, published on its RatedTrips site, but those listings would not open for us, so we cannot say whether either hotel holds one. Gleneagles Townhouse states no stars on the pages we read. One independent mark we could read: Forbes Travel Guide’s listing for The Balmoral carries its 2026 Five-Star badge.
Michelin’s 2026 list for Great Britain and Ireland, published 18 September 2026, gives Two Keys to The Balmoral and to Gleneagles Townhouse, the latter new this year. The Witchery is not on that list. The selection runs to 11 Three-Key, 47 Two-Key and 92 One-Key hotels. It is the 2026 list, so check the current one before you lean on it.
For another label, and what it does and does not tell you, see our page on Paris Palace hotels.
How do you get there?
By train from London
LNER said in September 2025 that its timetable from December 2025 would bring London King’s Cross to Edinburgh down to around four hours and ten minutes on many of the fastest services; check the current timetable for your train. Trains arrive at Edinburgh Waverley. Gleneagles Townhouse puts the station a two-minute walk away, and the MICHELIN Guide notes that The Balmoral opened in 1902 as the North British Hotel, a railway hotel next to Waverley. The Witchery gives no walking directions; it describes itself as “perched on Castlehill just steps from the gates to Edinburgh Castle”.
By air from London
Edinburgh Airport lists these London airports among its destinations:
| From | Airlines, per Edinburgh Airport | Flight time |
|---|---|---|
| London City | British Airways | 1h 35m |
| London Gatwick | easyJet | 1h 30m |
| London Heathrow | British Airways | 1h 35m |
| London Luton | easyJet | 1h 15m |
| London Southend | easyJet | 1h 30m |
| London Stansted | easyJet, Ryanair | 1h 20m |
The list shows neither season nor days of operation, so check the airline’s schedule before you book the hotel.
From Edinburgh Airport
Edinburgh Trams run between the airport and the city centre in 30 minutes, according to Edinburgh Airport: every seven minutes from 6:30am to 7pm and every ten minutes early and late, with the first tram from the airport at 06:30 and the last at 22:52. The route has stops named Princes Street and St Andrew Square, the street and the square where The Balmoral and Gleneagles Townhouse have their addresses; no stop is named for Castlehill. An adult airport single costs £7.90. By road, The Balmoral puts the airport 25 minutes away and lists airport transfers; Gleneagles Townhouse says about 30 minutes and arranges transfers with 48 hours’ notice.
If you are visiting from abroad
Unless you hold a British or Irish passport, you will usually need an electronic travel authorisation (ETA) rather than a visa if you come from Europe, the USA, Australia, Canada or certain other countries. It costs £20 and lasts two years or until your passport expires, and each traveller needs one, babies and children included.
Quick answers
What are the best 5-star hotels in Edinburgh?
The Balmoral and The Witchery call themselves 5-star without naming who awarded the rating; VisitScotland no longer grades hotels, and the AA’s star listings would not open for us. The independent marks we could read are Forbes Travel Guide’s 2026 Five-Star for The Balmoral and Michelin’s 2026 Two Keys for The Balmoral and Gleneagles Townhouse.
What is the poshest hotel in Edinburgh?
No ranking settles it. Of these three, The Balmoral carries both independent marks above; Gleneagles Townhouse has Two Keys and a members’ club; The Witchery has nine suites and neither mark.
What are some good luxury hotels in Edinburgh, and which are the nicest?
The three on this page each suit a different stay, set out in the table above; Prestonfield House and LYLA Restaurant & Rooms also hold Michelin Keys for 2026 but are not covered here.
Which one suits you?
Each choice comes with one question to put to the hotel before you book.
- For a spa with a pool, room for a family, and whisky ambassadors with 500 malts, The Balmoral; ask whether spa access comes with your room.
- For a rooftop bar open to hotel guests, classes you can book and a members’ club in the building, Gleneagles Townhouse; ask whether the gym is open to you without a class or treatment booked.
- For a suite on Castlehill, “at the gates of Edinburgh Castle” as the hotel puts it, The Witchery; ask whether the rate you are quoted includes breakfast.
And who each is not for:
- The Witchery is not for families with children under 10, for anyone who needs a second bed in the room, or for those arriving by car who want to park at the door.
- Gleneagles Townhouse is not for a family that needs a third bed, since every room sleeps two, and not for you if a bath is essential and you book one of the three smaller categories without checking.
- The Balmoral is not the choice if you want a small house: it has 167 rooms and 20 suites, against 33 rooms at Gleneagles Townhouse and nine suites at The Witchery.
Sources
- Rocco Forte Hotels, The Balmoral: home page, hotel information, rooms and suites, families, Irene Forte Spa, offers, Forte Escapes, Stay 4, Pay 3 and Palm Court autumn 2026 menu (all read 11 November 2026)
- MICHELIN Guide booking pages: The Balmoral and Gleneagles Townhouse (“starting at” prices for 9 to 10 December 2026, read 11 November 2026)
- Forbes Travel Guide: The Balmoral, a Rocco Forte Hotel (2026 Five-Star; read 11 November 2026)
- Gleneagles Townhouse: home page, Stay, Wellness, FAQs, Twice as Nice offer and Sunday Feast (charges and offer terms checked 11 November 2026)
- The Witchery: home page, Stay, FAQs, terms and conditions, Book Direct, offers, afternoon tea and contact (deposit, offers and dining prices checked 11 November 2026)
- City of Edinburgh Council: Edinburgh Visitor Levy comes into effect (23 July 2026)
- LNER: Scotland: times are changing on the East Coast (4 September 2025)
- Edinburgh Airport: Destinations and Trams (read 11 November 2026); Edinburgh Trams: Tickets (fare checked 11 November 2026)
- GOV.UK: Get an electronic travel authorisation (ETA) and Apply for an ETA (checked 11 November 2026)
- VisitScotland: Quality Assurance
- The AA: Rated Trips (AA star ratings; individual listings would not open, 11 November 2026)
- Michelin Guide: Key hotels in the UK and Ireland (18 September 2026)
